How to Shorten Trousers with Cuff

How to Shorten Trousers with Cuffs 

Cuffed Trouser

    Trousers come in all lengths, with cuffs or not. If you ever need to shorten pants/trousers and the customer asks for a cuff, it is very easy provided there is plenty of hem extension.

    Follow along and you will have those pants/trousers shortened in no time.

    Mark the new hem to the desired length.

 New hem marked with chalk.
    Release the existing hem, and press the legs flat, use steam if necessary.

New hem marked and original cuff/hem removed.

    Cuffs can be either 1.25” or 1.5” in height, your choice. Normally I try to make cuff height 1.5”. In this example the cuffs will be 1.5” in height.

    Add cuff and hem extensions: 3 X 1.5” to the hem mark, marking with chalk. In this case add 4.5” to the hem mark.

Mark the outside of legs with chalk.

    Mark the outside of the legs measuring up from the lower edge at 1.5” and 3” with chalk. The hem mark should still be at 4.5” from the lower edge.

    Cut off excess and serge lower edge.
Cut and remove excess from lower edge. Clean finish/serge the cut edge.

    Turn lower edge to the inside of leg (wrong sides together) along the second mark from bottom; press flat.
Lower edge turned to inside along second chalk mark from bottom.
    Topstitch the hem in place along the serged edge.

Lower edge turned to inside; hem extension is top stitched in place.
     Turn the pressed lower edge up to the outside of the pant/trousers (right sides together) along the lower chalk mark forming the cuff, and press flat.

Completed hem with cuff!
    Remember add three times the cuff with hem extension: 
    The cuff measures 1.5" on the inside of cuff fold and 1.5" on the outside of cuff fold, and the hem allowance is 1.5" that will be 4.5" added to the length of the desired pant/trouser.

     Thank you for visiting my Seam2Seam blog! If there is something you need help with, please don't hesitate to ask! I will do my best to post it here.
     What I am working on: inserting zippers with linings - watch for this post later this fall.

Hooded Rain Jacket

A new pattern for spring, Hooded Rain Jacket.

Buttrick Pattern B5931 - Hooded Rain Jacket

 A basic, go-anywhere jacket that is hip length with a hooded neckline, large hip pockets, slightly dropped shoulders, 3/4 length sleeves and optional snap, button or zipper closure. This comfy jacket can be easily worn over a chunky sweater. For an everyday sporty look, it can be paired with slick pants and boots.

The snap closure features dyed snap posts reinforced with heavy weight denim between the layers for support. The hip drawcord also features grommets reinforced with the same heavy weight denim between the layers.

Thimble Necklace

Thimble Necklace

On a recent visit my SIL showed me a beautiful necklace she had found made with an old thimble. It was beautiful!
I couldn't help but drool over her wonderful find!   

It was fashioned with a chain necklace supporting a thimble with beads suspended from the thimble.  Immediately I recalled that I had a stash of thimbles somewhere in my vast collection of unique treasures and couldn't wait to make one as soon as I returned home and found my stash of old thimbles. 

chain, thimble, necklace, beads

SEW - here it is several months later and ... did I find those treasured thimbles? Not yet as I have too many projects on my plate.

McCall's M6696 Problem

Recently I was approached to make Diner Dresses for a local diner uniform. The picture I was presented was the typical close fitting shirtdress with a waist band, collar, short sleeves and contrasting trims.

Mcalls M6696 Pattern

Their pattern of choice was McCalls pattern 6696, a shirtwaist dress with a 50s flair, Perfect for a Diner Uniform look. 

Quickly making up a sample I discovered a discrepancy in the size of the collar and the collar band. The full size pieces clearly did not match nor did the collar band fit the neckline of the dress. Measuring the seam line confirmed the error.

Collar Band McCalls 6696

This is the right hand side of the Collar and Band.
In the above photo the right pin is the Collar center front. 
The left pin marks the Band center front.
Clearly the Collar and Band do not match.

Contacting McCall's Pattern Co.

After contacting McCalls by email and explaining the problem along with taking pictures of the pattern pieces, I could see it was going to require a phone call. Unfortunately the only way to contact the company was by email as no phone number was listed on their website. One last email requesting the number resulted in a McCalls consumers’ service person calling me.

After explaining the problem to the consumers’ service person, she told me that she personally pinned the tissue pattern and everything matched. She also told me to read the instructions and that it clearly stated how the pattern pieces went together.

 This is the left hand side of the pattern pieces of the Band and Collar. 
The center fronts are right on! No problem matching up the markings.

Politely I again explained the problem and asked if we could please establish a right and left for the two pattern pieces, Collar #18 & Collar Band #19, which we were able to do. Pinning the left side we agreed that it matched at Center Front, Shoulder and Center Back. Moving onto the right side the consumers’ service person grew very quiet and said "I will be right back." 

‘Right back’ resulted in five minutes on hold only to be cut off. Quickly calling the number back resulted in no one answering. I could do nothing but wait for a return call. 

McCall's Reply

After 25 minutes the same consumers’ service person called back and explained that she spoke with the pattern graders showing them the problem. After what I am sure was a quick meeting with the manager and the graders they discovered that OOPS! They had an error in the pattern.

Their plan was to grade the pieces and then send me the corrected pieces. Meanwhile I could use the correct side of the pattern cutting the pieces on the fold. Originally I had stated in more than one email to please fold the pieces in half and they would see that they do not match.

When cutting collars and bands, I do not like cutting on the fold, I would much rather use a full pattern piece. Luckily I can do just that.

It is nice to know that we can contact pattern companies when there is a problem and someone will most likely be able to help. I can’t help but wonder about those who have made the dress and remain clueless. 

How to make the correction yourself:

Fold the Collar Band #19 in half at Center Back, and note that one half is longer than the other. Use the LONGER side of the Collar Band #19 and cut the Collar Band #19 on the fold at Center Back. You will need to cut two on the fold.
Hope this helps and good luck!